Over the weekend, I picked up my old copy of Chapman's and thumbed through the lighting section. Something popped out that I didn't remember: The white needs to be visible for 2nm, but the colored bow lights need only be visible for 1nm. I was thinking the all needed to be 2nm.
For boats under 50m length anyway... which I'm guessing covers all of us here.
Miter Saw Laser Guide!
John Turpin is the person who cued me in about the availability of a simple laser device that a person can attach to the saw blade of a miter saw, or a radial arm saw blade.
Maybe I'm the only person in the world who didn't know you could buy such a device, but the device is wonderful for tired old eyes. No longer do I have to get down and eyeball along side of the blade to ensure that I cut on the marked line.
Now I just start the blade turning, and presto... the red laser line appears on the wood, and the board can be moved slightly until the laser line and the marked line are the same! A neat cut every time!
I bought my laser guide at a local discount store for about $8.00. However, they can be ordered from Amazon. Irwin Industrial Tools, PN 3061001 for the Miter Saw Laser Guide. $9.99.
Bill Nolen OKC
How to Build a Wheel...
This is the first of a three part video on how to build a bicycle wheel. OK, we do not need to know that but watch and read how he does it! From the spring steel guides on his table saw to how to bend the wood. In Italian but well captioned. All of this can be applied to mast and frame and ??? This is a master that has been doing something many years......and has it figured out.
I made this temp arrangement for a rudder hold down line at SO2011 because the rudder kept floating to the surface. I found that it worked so well, I decided to leave it. The only drawback might be that the cheekblock is below the water line and you can get your sleeve wet. Maybe someone else might be experiencing a similar problem. Two links showing the up and down position: LINKONE and LINKTWO.